Iditarod Again, part one

Photo by Beat Jegerlehner

What does it mean, exactly, to return to the point of no return? It's not an oxymoron, but rather an inevitable cycle. For every threshold we cross — and in life, there are only a few — there remains a desire to wander back to the now-closed door and re-live the moment that everything changed. Maybe with renewed perspective, we'll finally be able to bring that jarring moment into focus and understand what it meant. And then we can turn from our threshold again, onto a beautiful new path. Like Frost's two roads in a yellow wood. We want to see what remains. We want to see what's different.

Everything changes, even memories, and yet emotions can be startlingly steadfast. Five years had passed, but there wasn't even a heartbeat separating the bewilderment of gazing through a barricade of birch trees along the shore of Knik Lake. Their shadows drew trenchant patterns on the snow, and everything beyond was still unnervingly unknown. 

Emotions were sharp but thoughts were jumbled at the start of the 2014 Iditarod Trail Invitational, with at atmosphere that was ripe for cognitive dissonance — as though a roving carnival had arrived at a mountain base camp. Temperatures hovered near freezing and the afternoon was intensely sunny, with low-angle light shimmering on the snow like a sequin carpet. Fifteen runners and forty cyclists, along with dozens of friends and family members, crowded the small parking lot of a community museum on the edge of Knik Lake. Clustered around the people was a jamboree of gear — carbon fat bikes still bearing the polish of nervous fiddling, steel fat bikes with bulging bags around their frames, sleds ranging from streamlined pulks to plastic toys with duffles strapped down by bungee cords. An enterprising hot dog vendor dragged her cart onto the snow and sold reindeer sausage and hot chocolate to lines of nervous athletes who, facing as many as four weeks on the trail, felt it necessary to force down one final pre-race meal. Few culinary experiences can match this sensation. Eating greasy carnival food and then immediately stepping onto a Tilt-A-Whirl comes to mind.

Anticipating the start of the Iditarod Trail Invitational, February 2008

The first time I started this race, in 2008, I was a child in my memory — a wide-eyed twenty-eight-year-old who had a rich imagination for possibilities but no real concept of the threshold I was about to irrevocably cross. The second time I started this race, in 2009, I was already old — perhaps too weathered and jaded for my actual experience level. My memories of 2008 held strong, and I was certain I could rewrite the story with fewer mistakes, more triumphs. In spite of this confidence, or maybe because of it, my heart never caught up to my ambition that year. Although I didn’t yet recognize the signs, my relationship at the time was failing, my job had become overwhelming, and I carried piles of dissatisfaction that I believed the Iditarod Trail could simply fix. But when I stood at the edge of Knik Lake that year, I didn’t recognize any of my pre-written script, or ambition, or hope. I saw only doom. It’s easy to say that in hindsight, knowing what I know now, but that is distinctly how I remember it — a wash of gray skies and flat light, and a feeling of undefinable dread. Within four hours, I had punched my right leg into an opening in the ice on Flathorn Lake. Within six hours, darkness plunged temperatures below minus thirty. Within twelve hours, I had serious frostbite on my right foot, and my race was over.

Anticipating the start, February 2014.

“I don’t feel any doom this year; that’s a good sign,” I told my boyfriend Beat, who was gearing up for his second attempt at the thousand-mile march to Nome. The last time I lined up beneath the banner stretched out over this frozen shoreline, five years earlier, I also stood beside my partner at the time. This is the point of no return — the reality that time is linear, and yet much about life is recycled experience. The Iditarod Trail Invitational is the kind of grueling yet addictive adventure that the same people keep returning to year after year, precisely because it can never be experienced in the same way. Those who knew the ITI would ask me why it took so long to return. Everyone else remained flabbergasted as to why I’d even return at all — I finished the race once, and then I was injured, and then I went through a break-up, and then I met someone new and wonderful, and then I moved to the warm and friendly state of California. There was no remotely rational reason why I should ever come back to drag myself 350 miles across Alaska wilderness, again.

 In many ways, an entire life cycle had passed in the five years that spanned the moment I hobbled out of Yentna Station with blackened toes, and the moment I marched back to the Iditarod starting line in shiny new Montrail running shoes. I had been old, and then broken, and then I cycled back to wide-eyed innocence. That childlike spark — and the desire to grasp onto it as long as possible — was why I was strapped to a sled this year. During my first two attempts in 2008 and 2009, I was a cyclist. I was only a cyclist. I rode bikes nearly every day of the year; I rode bikes in sleet and rain and streams of slush. I walked bikes for miles through places where it was impossible to ride, just to search for new places to ride bikes. I directed most of my disposable income toward cycling and fixated on parts and gear and shiny new components. My partner at the time was a runner, but I couldn’t relate to him on that level. Running seemed painful, slow; what was the point? No, I was not a runner. I was certain I never would be.

Life cycles have a way of masticating our assumptions, sometimes in the most surprising ways. I think I know myself, and then I crash into a whirlpool of change and realize my reality goes so much deeper. That my sense of self is just the exposed tip of an iceberg of consciousness. It’s thrilling and terrifying at the same time, to realize that there’s no way I’ll ever fully know myself, which means I’ll never stop discovering who I am. So, against wisdom I once possessed, I lined up at the reindeer sausage cart to drown my nausea in a lukewarm cup of hot chocolate. And I stood next to dozens of fellow winter cycling enthusiasts, sans bike.

My sled was the sum of my most recent answer to the ultimate problem. Endurance sports tend to generate a whirlpool of problems without obvious solutions: What gear will help me go faster? What food can I eat at moderate effort levels for twenty-four hours without barfing? How many electrolyte tablets should I take to avoid cramping? What shoes will prevent my feet from deteriorating into a cesspool of blood and puss? For every possible answer there are many variations and exponentially more questions. It can become dizzying and is one of the reasons I appreciate Alaska wilderness-based endurance efforts, because all of these questions are trumped the one — the only one — that really matters:

“How do I stay alive?” 

I’ve been mulling over this ultimate problem — well, all my life — but specifically related to self-sufficiency in subzero cold, since 2005. The answer is as simple as it is obvious: One must stay warm. Ah, but how to stay warm? That is where the whirlpool commences. Adequate insulation is important, but not the sole key to self-generated warmth. Bodies that are depleted of energy don’t produce heat, so sufficient calories are needed. Cells depleted of moisture are more susceptible to freezing, so regular hydration is crucial. Clothing, food, water — on a base level, that actually is all a human needs to survive indefinitely in deep subzero cold. But what to wear? And what to eat? And how to make water and prevent it from freezing? And how to carry it all, enough but not so much that it hinders forward motion? How to customize it to my individual needs — nerve-damaged toes that are always too cold and thighs that are always too warm? In real-life execution, even the most basic problems still have seemingly endless possible solutions. 

So what do we do? Trial and error, using what just happens to be the best-tested method at any given moment. Whatever this is, is bound to change — so it’s almost pointless to make assertions on paper regardless of how certain one is about their gear. Suffice to say that each item in my 2014 sled was different than those I carried on my 2008 bicycle, with one key exception: A fleece balaclava that had been a faithful head-warmer since I was a teenage snowboarder in 1997. My dedication to this pilled black fleece was more nostalgic than practical at this point, but it remained the single constant in an ever-changing repertoire. 

But, to answer the question of what was in my sled, without compiling too long of a useless list, and not including the clothing I wore at the start or the two liters of water on my back: A down sleeping bag rated to fifty below zero, a closed-cell foam pad, a water-proof bivy sack, a liquid fuel stove, twenty-two ounces of fuel, pot and spoon, an expedition down coat, Gore-Tex shell jacket and waterproof pants, spare fleece socks, spare liner socks, vapor barrier socks, synthetic puffy jacket, spare liner mittens, vapor barrier mittens, spare hat, goggles, buff, wind pants, thin fleece pullover, nylon waders, spare large plastic bags, repair supplies and med kit, survival knick-knacks such as fire starters and a personal locator beacon, electronics, forty-ounce insulated thermos, and twelve thousand calories — or about two and a half days’ worth — of nuts, chocolate, dried fruit, crackers, dehydrated chicken and noodles, and gummy candy. The total weighed in at about forty-five pounds, or exactly one third of my body weight. 

Beat’s sled clocked in at a whopping seventy-five pounds. An explanation is in order for this. Beat completed the trek to Nome in 2013 on the Southern Route of the Iditarod Trail, and soon after developed ambitions to trek to the South Pole. Although funding is the major obstacle to any polar endeavor, he thought it would be wise to test his abilities for an unsupported Antarctic expedition by conducting a dry run of sorts in Alaska. After much mulling on the prospect, he decided to take smaller steps, traveling the Northern Route of the Iditarod Trail over three self-supported legs. The first would be 350 miles to McGrath — the entire distance I was planning to travel — with everything he needed in his sled. Unlike me, Beat would not collect the two drop bags provided by the race organization, and at the time did not plan to go inside any buildings or purchase any food from lodges along the way. Even this truncated endeavor required more than thirty pounds of food and fuel, which Beat parsed out in high-calorie-density ziplock bags of peanut butter and dehydrated meals, among a few other items. 

Both of our sleds looked obese as we sifted through them in the final hours before the start, mulling last-minute crash diets. No one, including me, wants to drag forty-five pounds of dead weight over the Alaska Range, but the ultimate problem keeps me from tossing it all in the nearest oil drum fire. Ultimately, I want to stay alive. I could probably stay alive with less gear, but life is important to me and I’m not inclined to bet on the increasingly higher stakes of fewer supplies. Beat and I are both conservatives in this regard. And as residents of the San Francisco Bay Area, our testing opportunities are limited.

We were called from the museum parking lot down a steep bank to the lake ice below. This year, there were a host of familiar faces among the competitors, and amusingly, most of my friends were runners — longtime veterans Tim and Loreen Hewitt, Laurel Highlands co-race-director Rick Freeman, fellow Californian Steve Ansell, blazing-fast sled-dragger Dave Johnston, and going for her first attempt on Nome, Anne Ver Hoef. A buzzing vibration of nerves all but drowned the chatter in the crowd, and similar to past years in this event, I never actually heard the official "Go!"

Home roaming

Beat laughed we he caught me poring over Strava's heat maps again. "You're obsessed with this now," he said.

"I'm just trying to set a route for tomorrow," I said, wide-eyed as I scrolled over thin blue lines drawn across an area of the map that for me, until now, was entirely blank. Where I reside — in a metropolitan area of 7 million people that is surrounded by a patchwork of open space — finding new places to roam isn't as simple as just looking at a map. There's so much private land, watershed easements, gates, extensive and often convoluted use restrictions. It's easiest to just find routes that work and go to these places again and again. After all, once you've seen one oak-dotted hillside or redwood grove, you've seen them all, right?

 And yet ... I need new spaces. I recognize that I travel at a higher-than-average rate while enjoying the spoils of settled life. I don't think I could handle a fully itinerant lifestyle, and yet ... I need new spaces. Just when I think I've tapped out my immediate geography and there's nothing else to explore, new wrinkles and folds come into view. The heat maps revealed a slew of new trails that were close enough to shoot for from my house. I traced the map and then went out looking for them.

My fitness is not stellar right now. Interestingly, and opposite of my usual status quo, I have decent power for cycling in short bursts, but the power meter drains out quickly rather than kicking into good ol' endurance mode. I'm good for an hour, and then I suck. Perhaps this is what five weeks of inactivity, one week of semi-smart rebuilding, and two weeks of turning it up to eleven will get you. Muscles get tired, who knew?

But yes, my ride plan called for immediate 15- to 20-percent grades up the thick clay of Fremont Older, followed by pretty much carrying my bike down the hill when bricks formed around the frame and the wheels wouldn't turn anymore. (It rained Friday and Saturday. Yay! This makes me happy, but it also makes for a wet and muddy ride, for which I am embarrassingly out of practice.) Ten minutes were spent chipping away at concrete, then another twenty or so finding my way out of the steep, rolling maze of Saratoga. Then it was time to climb again, nearly 3,000 feet up to the crest of El Serreno.

 I pretty much spent my day's allotment of energy in the first six miles at Fremont Older, and had little to give for what was only the first of two huge climbs — that I knew about. By the time I dropped off the ridge, legs searing and shoulders aching, I considered the just descending all the way to Los Gatos and forgetting this whole silly exploration thing. But this path, this nondescript side road veering off a quiet neighborhood street, beckoned in a hypnotic way. It was a powerline access road that was overgrown with grass, strewn with deadfall, and eaten away by mudslides — calling out to me as though it was the most desirable trail ever cut into a mountainside.

And then it just kept on climbing. Like any good contouring powerline access road, it cut up one small drainage and down the next, direct and steep, up and down. I only acknowledged the ups. Climb and climb. Mist billowed around the forested mountainside. Curtains of rain fell through sunbeams thrown by a clearing to the west, and there were rainbows and sparkling raindrops. It was a beautiful afternoon on this most secret of trails, so close to home and yet so far away.

I turned a corner at the bottom of the drainage, into an enchanted woods with lush pines, real fall color, and a glassy secret lake. I exited the woods onto a paved road and saw the first trail sign of this secret trail, forbidding bikes. Oh, that explains it. I didn't see a single other person out there on a Saturday afternoon, in seven miles. It always irks me when public spaces that are clearly not frequented by anyone carry these restrictions. But I try keep it legal and don't intentionally poach trails, so I guess if I want to go back to this enticing place, I'll have to plan a long run.

 I couldn't dwell on my misdemeanor for long, because it was time to climb again. Climb and climb. My heart was developing that dull achy feeling that sometimes crops up when it's been beating too hard for too long. Climb and climb. I checked my watch and although I'd only ridden 23 miles thus far, I'd already climbed 5,000 feet and was still climbing. Argh. Climb and climb. Veered onto the Saratoga Gap trail, powered over some roots, more climbing. The sun went down. I turned onto Grizzly Flat with about twenty minutes to spare before twilight turned to darkness. Some mountain bikers who had just emerged and were packing up their car asked me, "Are you going in now?"

"I have to," I said. "It's the only way I can get home from here."

"You'll never make it," one of the mountain bikers said — presumably also aware of the no-trail-use-after-dark, you'll-almost-certainly-get-a-ticket rule. "We just finished, it's far."

"It's quick, mostly downhill; I can make it," I said.

"And there are bobcats," he warned, as though ranger danger wasn't scary enough.

I thanked him and turned into the dark forest in the fading light. Twelve miles and fifty minutes later, I was home. As far as I'm concerned, that entire ride was climbing.

Beat gave me a hard time for riding for six hours on Saturday when we had our official longish weekend ride planned with friends on Sunday. We met Pavel and Jan at the mouth of Steven's Canyon and headed back the way I came out just fourteen hours earlier.

Ugh, I was feeling the miles. Beat completed a long run yesterday, and Pavel is more of a short-range guy than an endurance cyclist, but Jan didn't take sympathy on any of us. He planned a punishing route — lots of singletrack and power moves and steep rollers that always feel like all climbing. Fun, of course; no one would argue that it wasn't fun. I certainly wasn't arguing. It's more enjoyable just to roll with it, and apologize when your tired legs cause you to drift farther and farther behind.

 All in all, it was a fantastic weekend of overdoing it — some bikesplorations, some social riding with friends, some sauna time for the sore muscles. I've got the heat maps out again and am already dreaming up the next adventure. Once I get my running legs back, there's almost nothing on there I can't cover. I'd love to see the whole Santa Cruz mountain range light up on my own personal heat map. After all, there's really no such thing as being stuck in one place.

Learning to run again

 After the third and hopefully final knee-flexing session with my doctor today, I was given the go-ahead to start running again, as well as encouragement to "ween" myself from dependency on a rigid brace while riding bikes. Lots of miles in the saddle and very few on foot have disrupted the balance, and I've noticed old overuse nags that I haven't felt in years — hints of patellar and Achilles tendonitis. I either have to reduce the cycling miles or slowly increase the foot miles. I'd planned on walking after the appointment, but after the encouraging assessment, decided to leave the trekking poles in the car and try a slow jog. Four miles on a flat gravel path at an average of 12 minutes per mile, and the knee felt surprisingly strong. I would probably be more excited about that, except for the rest of it felt discouragingly tough for a four-mile, 48-minute jog. It's going to be a long road back. It always is.

On Wednesday I rode in the Headlands with Leah. I'm actually feeling pretty strong on the bike right now — that came back fast. We enjoyed a mellow spin in the fading evening light, then went for Burmese food in the Richmond district. As we were enjoying our tea leaf salad, the streets outside erupted into mild chaos, with screaming, honking, loud bangs, even fireworks. Before this evening, I had no clue that the World Series was happening, or that the Giants were playing, but they apparently had just won and the usual mayhem and car fires were about to begin. I'm embarrassed that I didn't know about the World Series. I browse the New York Times site every morning, keep up with Bay Area media to an admittedly lesser extent, and have baseball fans as friends, and yet I missed this. It's evidence of how insular my world has become, and how I should probably pay more attention to what's going on locally besides extreme drought and eye-rolling political antics. I'm not against professional team sports; they simply aren't interesting to me, and it's gotten to the point of inattention where I've lost track of even major events like the Superbowl. But it is good to know when the streets of San Francisco might erupt into riots, just in case I'm out for a Headlands bike ride that evening. At least the trails were nice and empty.

In other news, my blog turns nine years old this week. Can you believe it? Nine! A cursory glance at the Blogger overview reveals that amounts to 1,796 posts, 21,874 comments, and 4,141,958 visits lo these many years. This is a small (yet obese) blog with a limited scope, but it continues to be a fun, relaxing project, and I enjoy having the record of nine years' worth of adventures. I am nearing completion of my book project that has involved poring over every post from year one of this blog, and that's been an interesting rehash as well. Many times I find myself thinking, "Was I ever so young?" ... which is a little embarrassing considering I'm still writing about virtually the same subjects on the same platform. But I value all of the connections this blog created over the years, the new friends and new ideas. I appreciate those who continue to check in even during the typical life lulls, like now.

On that note, I've also returned to my Iditarod 2014 race report and am considering starting to post that next week (contingent on continuing to make good progress on my book project.) I held off for so long because ... life ... and also because I had this conceptual idea that I wanted to spend more time hashing out, but it's proving to be difficult. A straight narrative might be the best way to go for now, just to make sure I get it all down before the memories start to fade. I can return to my original idea in future Iditarod adventures, which I plan to continue this coming March. So look for that. In the meantime, buy Tim's book! ;)

I am trying to put together a ~300-mile bikepacking loop around the Santa Cruz mountains, and was hoping to scout some trails on the northern part of the Peninsula this weekend. Beat scrutinized my route and announced it contained a large amount of hike-a-bike and some possibly illegal trails. So perhaps it's back to square one. If any readers know of good routes in Half Moon Bay, Montara, and Pacifica, I'd appreciate some direction for good touring (emphasis on touring) trails. Apparently I routed my tour through 30-percent-grade segments with names like "Cave Hike-A-Bike," "911 DH," and "XXX DH."

Speaking of blog connections, I recently learned that a woman who I knew while I lived in Alaska has been diagnosed with stage four colon cancer that spread to her liver. She used to keep a blog called "Karen Travels" and lived in Anchorage for a few years. She is a single mother to a two-year-old son and she is younger than I am, facing an extremely difficult battle. She has been on my mind frequently this week, even before she sent me an e-mail asking if I wouldn't mind sharing her fundraising page. "I am hoping I have at least a few good years, I am not done adventuring, and I want to take him out on some adventures too!" she wrote. Karen hopefully will have more great adventures. Her fundraising page, "Karen Kicking Cancer," is at this link.